Friday, July 24, 2015

Ramadan, Iftar, and Eid

I have found it really interesting being here in South Asia, during Ramadan and experiencing it all up close and personal. I didn't know a lot about Ramadan before, just basically that it was when Muslims fast for a month. I'm sure there's still a lot that I don't know, but I've enjoyed learning a little bit more about it through my experiences here. One of the biggest things that surprised me was the huge focus on food, I just wasn't expecting that, you know since it's a fast and all. But the fast only lasts during the daylight hours. So at around 2:30 every morning, during the 30 days of the fast, the call to prayer is sung at the mosques and played over loud speakers to wake everyone up so they can prepare the morning meal and eat it before it's starts getting light at 4:00 am. Then they don't eat or drink anything the rest of the day until after the sun goes down around 7:00 pm. The meal they eat in the evenings is called the Iftar meal, and we had the awesome privilege of getting to enjoy this meal with a Deaf couple who graciously invited us into their home. We enjoyed going to the different food stands set up on the streets to purchase the special Iftar meal food for dinner that night with the couple. 

One of the many food stands
Another food stand
Deaf woman preparing the Iftar meal

Iftar meal all set up and ready to eat on the bed
Enjoying the Iftar meal
Iftar meal with new friends
While the woman prepared the Iftar meal, we enjoyed talking with the man and his daughters, and learning some more about Ramadan. He told us that Ramadan was celebrated to remember when the Quran was given to Muhammad. He also told us only those who are capable are required to fast: children, pregnant women, the sick and the elderly are exempt from fasting. Once children start getting older, they start participating in the fast. His own daughter, who is 10 years old, was partaking for the second time in the fast, but she did not fast all 30 days. Once the meal was prepared, it was set out in front of us on the bed in the living room area (where we ate, because they have no dining room table or chairs), and we waited until the call was sounded to let everyone know that it was time to eat. The Deaf couple turned on the TV to a channel that let you know when it was time to eat. We really enjoyed sharing the Iftar meal with our new friends!
Iftar buffet set up on the street
Besides the food stands selling the special Ramadan food, there was also an outdoor Iftar buffet tent that was set up in our neighbourhood all during Ramadan that served the Iftar meal every evening. 
Mall Food court during Iftar meal

Shops closed during Iftar meal 
One day we unintentionally ended up going to the mall during the Iftar time, a mistake we only made once, because it was so crowded with people who had come to eat their Iftar meal at the mall. The whole top floor, where the food court was, was so filled with people sitting at the tables and all over the floors, that we couldn't even walk anywhere up there. And the two floors below it also had lots of people sitting on the floors waiting to eat the Iftar meal. The Shops also all closed during the Iftar meal time for the workers to eat together. 
Iftar buffet at Thai restaurant 
Thai Iftar meal
Lots of restaurants had Iftar buffet specials, and we decided to try out the Thai restaurant's special. The food was really delicious, and the restaurant was packed full. 

Lights up for Ramadan and Eid
Lots of places were decorated and had lights up for Ramadan and also for Eid al-fitr (the feast of breaking the fast), which is the four day holiday at the end of Ramadan. 

Sheet covering people eating at little outdoor restaurant

The Deaf tailor's wife
During Ramadan, we also went to visit a Deaf couple who owns a tailor shop. During Ramadan, people who do not participate in the fast are not supposed to eat in front of Muslims who are participating. So little outdoor places that serve meals and other restaurants will hang up sheets so that those who are eating cannot be seen by those who are fasting. Despite this, when we went to visit the tailor and his wife, they insisted on still feeding us some mango, pound cake and 7Up like they do every other time we come to visit them (I guess for them, hospitality trumped fasting). We also got to talk with them some about Ramadan and why they fast. She told us that the fasting is one of the five pillars of the Muslim faith that they are required to do if they want to go to heaven (the other pillars are praying 5 times a day, giving to the poor, reading the Quran, and the Hajj). He told us that because many students participate in the fast, the school's are only in session from 8:00 am - 12:00 pm, so it's not too hard on the students who are fasting (school is normally from 7:00 am - 5:00 pm). 

One thing I didn't really enjoy about Ramadan, was all the crowds, I mean it's always crowded here, but it was even worse during Ramadan, especially the closer it got to Eid. The grocery stores were the worst, people were in there buying tons of food for the Iftar meals, and in preparation for the Eid celebration with family and friends at the end of Ramadan. Normally we tend to buy a lot more than the locals do at the grocery store, they come in and get like one or two things, but not during Ramadan. They were buying a lot more than I was, more than I normally even buy in America. It was crazy. Of course that made sense when Ramadan was over and the four day Eid holiday started, because then everything was closed, even all the grocery stores. We had to live off of beans and rice, and PB&J sandwiches for a couple of days since we weren't prepared for the stores to be closed (but we'll be ready for next year). It also was so quiet and peaceful during the four days of the Eid holiday, especially after the crazy crowds leading up to Eid, it was so nice and so different from it normally is, it was almost like a ghost town. 

Stores closed for Eid
In some ways Ramadan and Eid kind of reminded me of Christmas: they have special food they eat, everywhere is decorated and has lights up, stores had Eid sales and people were out shopping a lot, restaurants had Iftar specials, everyone goes home to their villages for the Eid holiday to be with family, people celebrate with family and friends. Also, employers are expected to give Eid bonuses to their families, and people in general are supposed to be more generous and give to the poor, so there were people all over the streets asking for money (besides the beggars that are always there). And people say Eid Mubarak to each other like we say Merry Christmas or Happy Holidays. 
Our landlord and his wife invited us over to have Eid meal with their family and friends. The traditional Eid meal was all kinds of fish cooked all different ways, and a rice pudding dessert. I have been so blessed by all the amazing people who have just welcomed us right into their homes like we're family.
The Deaf Association that we have been going to every Thursday for the past couple of months, didn't meet at all during Ramadan and Eid, so yesterday was our first day back in a month. It was like seeing all your friends again after Christmas break or something. Everyone was so excited to see each other again and asking about how their Eid was, and we had such a sweet time of fellowship and catching up with each other. I'm so thankful for all the sweet, amazing new friends we are making here!

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